Corset Chronicals- Pt. 7 and some other projects

This is the final stage, the one that I call completion! I finished the corset tonight and wore it around the house to make sure that everything is ok with it. I am going to add some decorative lace at the top, but for now the corset is done! And it fits pretty well. I must say that I surprised myself with it. *Pictures to come* It is the most in depth project I have had to do yet.

While waiting for the boning to come in, I did some other sewing that needed to be done. I finally put the pockets on my wrapper. I also added a front panel to keep my pettis/nightgown from showing. I had planned on making a nice petti and keeping the front of my wrapper open, but that hasn't happened yet.

Here you can see the pocket. I used some leftover brown cotton for the "ruffle" and added some blue soutache braid to the edge before gathering it and attaching it to the back of the pocket. Then I stitched the pocket on. There is one on each side. They are both decorative and functional, I have a feeling that I am going to love them! I want to trim my wrapper some more, I'm just not sure how to.

Next up: Green print cotton day dress and a Brown Stipe Silk dress!! Hopefully both can get done before March 19, but the silk is taking priority, though I think the cotton will get done first. This will be my first dive into silk!!

Godey's- March 1861.

I am using the sleeves on the striped green dress here for inspiratoin for my silk dress! I found this and just loved how the stripes are played with on the sleeves. Soon I will start this next project, after the event at Fort Anderson this weekend that is!

Corset Chronicals -Pt.6

Almost there!! Now the eyelets are set, and the 4 peices of back boning that go on either side of the eyelets for back support are in. The busk is also inserted in the front. I still need to put the rest of the boning in. The corset fits well, but lacks bust support, but this will be fixed when the rest of the boning is inserted. I am waiting on the spring steel for the front curves of the corset. I do heve the flat white steel from my old corset that I am going to use on the sides, so that will probably get put in there soon.

After the boning comes in, it will be but in its casing and attached, then the top and bottom binding will be put on, then its all done!

Corset Chroncals- Pt. 5

Sewing complete :) All 10 gussets are in and all seams are flat felled! I love the feeling of accomplishment. I am still waiting for the spiral steel boning to come in, it has been shipped though, so hopefully it will come soon! The whole process has been rather fun.

Things left to do:
Eyelets
Stay Tape
Busk
Boning
Binding
Finished!!

Corset Chronicals- Pt. 4

Ok, second mockup is done, and its been fixed!! I made the gussets way too big for the second mockup, but this gave me room to "pinch-up" the extra room. After taking in the extra, I stitched it in place and tried again, this time much better!! I also added another hip gusset in the back for a bit more hip flare. I am doing this mock up without much boning, except for in the back with the lacing, and sticking a few peices in the front. I am ordering the rest of the boning this week. I have the busk already, Im going to use my old laceing until I can get a new one thats all cotton, and I bought eyelets for the back.
Another thing that I am going to do on this corset that the pattern does not call for is a "staytape". It is inserted at the waist of the corset to keep it from stretching and helps keep the corset at the waist, for this I am going to use someof the cotton twill tape that is also going to be used for the binding at the top and bottom of the corset.
Now- to cut the fabric and get started on a final product :)

Corset Chronicals- Pt. 3

Ok, finished the mockup and.....no good. The bust was completley wrong. The gussets were just too small for not so small bust. The overall length was good though. The back had a few wrinkles resulting in length needing to be taken out right above that hip gusset.
Since then I have redrafted the corset. Made the gussets bigger, and extended the top of the corset up to where it will cover the bust a little more. More boning is going to be needed as well in order to get the support I need.
For now, off to finish mockup #2!

Corset Chronicals- Pt 2!

Today I finished sewing all of the peices together!! The bust gussets are in, so are the front and back hip gussets. Those gussets are a little bit more decieveing that I thought they would be! Getting them to adjust just right was a bit tricky, but the did go in.

Now, the fronts and backs need to be put together and boned.

I did "try on" one half of the corset, it comes over far on my back, I think the sping in this one is going to be closer to 4", but that will be ok because if it stretches over time or IF I lose weight it should still fit well and not interfear with my spine.

For now, a picture of the front and back pieces marked.

Corset Chronicals- Pt. 1

So, I bought the Simplicity 2890 corset pattern by Kay Gnagney (http://www.originals-by-kay.com/) some time ago. I have been pushing this project off so that I had time to really focus on it. So, now that I am in my final undergrad semester taking 23 credit hours I have decided to tackle it!! yeah..I know, please don't say it.
Anyway
Progress made so far- pattern and mock-up pieces cut out and marked. Just need to sew them all together now.
I was able to find some nice sturdy cotton twill fabric in my stash, so I dont need to buy fabric, I also have some cotton twill tape for the binding. I am going to used the busk out of my current corset, which will save me about $20. All I need to get is a new lace, and the boning. I am going to wait to purchase to boning until after my mock-up is made so that I will know what lengths to get as well as how many, because I have a feeling that I am going to add more boning than the pattern calls for.
Pictures to come :)

New Projects

With a new year just around the corner I have much to do! I have started on 2 new projects for this upcoming season.

One is a nice warm petticoat to go over my cage. It is an olive brown color wool with a cotton yoke at the top to reduce bulk. The petticoat still needs to be gauged into the waistband and a button and button hole added for closeure. I need to double check the length of it right now to make sure it is not too long to wear with my dresses. The original plan was to have it tucked at the bottom, so if it is too long I will put at least one tuck in it to be both functional and decorative :) This one will hopefully double as a layer of warmth and as a wool work petticoat if I need it.

Another project is a new pinner apron that I have been wanting for a while. The first pinner I made was not right, so I wanted a new one in plaid this time. I found the perfect fabric 50% off of its redtag price at Joanns and got all that was left (2 2/3 yards) Just enough to make my apron! It wasn't until I got home that I realized it was 55" wide which meant I had more than enough. With the extra fabric I am going to do some bias trim on the pockets and at the top of the bib. I have finished the skirt of the apron, now I need to do the waistband and bib. I think I am going to make the ties of this one button instead of tie.

I was able to get another great find at a wonderful price at the Joanns sale- a 8 1/4 yards dress length of green cotton print :) I wanted a dress length for a good cotton day dress I could wear over my cage (other than the yellow & blue plaid lawn I have now). The fabric is gorgeous! I have already started planning the dress!

I still haven't started my new corset mockup, but I have been looking for the supplies needed for the corest. I will probably pull the pattern out and start cutting the paper in the next day or two to get started on it.

Ambitious

I have been pondering a new corset for some time now, but being a broke college student, thats a little out of the picture to buy the one I want. So, instead I ventured out to the pattern sales and picked up a copy of Kay Gnageys Corset pattern. I have heard great things about the corset, and I think that with some long nights, and good fittings I should be able to have a new, custom fitted corset!

I also picked up a little over a yard of pretty cotton lace/tape that will look good as a nice set of collar and cuffs to help make my dresses look nicer.